Jet-black sand glitters against bright blue waters near emerald hills wearing lacy white crowns of mist in โHeavenly Hana,โ the nickname of this tranquil region of East Maui since the 1940s. Its main draws for sightseers are the caves, tidepools and rugged shoreline of Waianapanapa State Park; Piilanihale Heiau, thought to be the largest such stone temple in Polynesia and now part of verdant Kahanu Garden; and the waterfalls and natural pools of the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park.
Beachgoers will also appreciate the soft gray sand at half-moon Hamoa Beach, โa beach so perfectly formed that I wonder at its comparative obscurity,โ James Michener wrote, and the reddish sand of Koki Beach, where itโs better to watch from shore as local surfers ply its rougher waters. In town, hike up a 500-foot hill past grazing cattle to the landmark Faganโs Cross for compelling ocean views.
Those who arenโt simply day-trippers on the winding, wonder-filled ย 52-mile Road to Hana will find heavenly lodgings at Hana-Maui Resort. Now managed by Hyatt, the only full-service hotel in the region is renowned for its seaside bungalows, rich activities program and serene spa. Other than the resortโs signature restaurant, sit-down dining options are scarce, but food trucks and roadside stands make the most of the local agricultural bounty.
History: Hana (Hฤna, pronounced haah-nuh) has a large population of Native Hawaiians, some growing taro and throw-net fishing just like the generations before them. Cattle have grazed at Hana Ranch on former sugarcane fields since the 1940s, when founder Paul Fagan also created what became the Hotel Hana-Maui (now Hana-Maui Resort).
Queen Kaahumanu, favorite wife of King Kamehameha the Great, was born nearby, in a cave on the cinder cone Puu Kauiki. After the kingโs death in 1819, Kaahumanu became a powerful leader in her own right, ultimately ending the kapu (taboo) system and embracing the Christian faith of missionaries who arrived in 1820.
PC: Hawaii Islander